Time lapse of black and white Gum Bichromate print with a negative made using Epson SureColor P800 printer.
Tag: gum printing
Black & White Gum Print Workflow: Materials & Method © 2016
Paper: Rives BFK, white, 250 grams, mouldmade, 100% cotton, neutral PH, hot pressed.
Pigment: Winsor & Newton Professional Watercolor, Lamp Black
Winsor & Newton Designers Gouache, Lamp Black

Sensitizer
I use Ammonium Dichromate for the sensitizer. Working with the 1:1 ratio as a starting point I use 12 “droppers” (as much solution of either gum or sensitizer as the stem of the dropper can hold) gum arabic to 12 “droppers” of sensitizer (for a total of 24 “droppers”) with about ½ inch to ¾ inch “worm” of pigment (*only about ¼ inch for gouache). Altering the ratio (even slightly, for example: less droppers of gum to sensitizer–i.e. 10 droppers of gum to 14 droppers will produce less contrast and more drops of gum to sensitizer will produce greater contrast (i.e. 14 droppers of gum to 10 drops of sensitizer).

Making the Print: Cyanotype
I use Cyanotype as the first layer to add detail and enhance the D-max. I do a 20-minute exposure (enough to achieve tone in step #3) before any gum layer is put on.
Making the Gum Print: Coating
After the Cyanotype layer, I start with a short exposure to produce tone no greater than step 2/3 to establish the shadows. My exposure for the first set is 1 minute 30 seconds (at a 12 droppers gum: 12 droppers sensitizer ratio). The seconds set is longer at 6 minutes 30/45 seconds (at a 13 droppers gum: 11 droppers sensitizer ratio) and produces tone up to step 8 to establish the mid-tones and highlights. For more density in the shadows, I then add a short exposure (at a 14 droppers gum: 10 droppers sensitizer ratio) for about 2 minutes (for no greater than step 3). Finally, to add a little “kick” to the shadow and give more depth to the print, I use lamp black gouache (at a 15 droppers gum: 9 droppers sensitizer ratio) as a final layer with a 30 second exposure time (no more than step 2).
Making the Gum Print: Development
I “still” develop the FIRST SET in a tray of water (about 68-75 degrees) for about 5 minutes until the boarders of the print start to clear–then in a second tray with cold water for about 10-15 minutes and change to cold water (warm water as needed) at 5-minute intervals for a total of 30 minutes development time. For the SECOND SET (as well as any additional sets), I still develop in a tray of water (about 68-75 degrees) for about 5 minutes until the boarders of the print start to clear then in a second tray with cold water (warm water as needed) for about 10 minutes and change water at 5 minute intervals for a total of 30 minutes development time. After each exposure, I also immerse the print in a tray of 1% Potassium Metabisulfite solution to keep the boarders white.
Making the Print: Workflow (exposure times may vary)
· Layer #1 Cyanotype – 10ml of each A/B Cyanotype chemistry. Exposed 20 minutes (enough to achieve tone in step #3).
· Layer #2 Gum Bichromate Lamp Black Watercolor – at 1:1 gum to sensitizer ratio (12 full eyedroppers of gum and 12 full eyedroppers of ammonium dichromate). Expose for 1 minute 30 seconds (enough to achieve slight tone in step #3) and “still” developed for ½ hour in cold/warm water.
· Layer #3 Gum Bichromate – Lamp Black Watercolor – 13 full eyedroppers of gum and 11 full eyedroppers of ammonium dichromate. Expose for 6 minutes 30/45 seconds (enough to achieve slight tone in step #8) and “still” developed for ½ hour in cold/warm water.
· Layer #4 Gum Bichromate – Lamp Black Watercolor – 14 full eyedroppers of gum and 10 full eyedroppers of ammonium dichromate. Expose for 2 minutes(enough to achieve tone in step #3) and “still” developed for ½ hour in cold/warm water
· Layer #5 Gum Bichromate – Lamp Black Gouache ONLY A QUARTER INCH OF PIGMENT– 15 full eyedroppers of gum and 9 full eyedroppers of ammonium dichromate. Expose for 30 seconds (enough to make step #2 disappear) and “still” developed for ½ hour in cold water.






Black & White Gum Print Workflow © 2016
I had this idea to try making Black and White gum prints using a single negative but with multiple exposures. Recently I experimented with using gray toned Rives BFK with a negative and a positive. I printed the negative using black pigment and the positive using white pigment—the gray would provide a neutral ground. This idea was inspired by old master drawings where charcoal or ink was used on a “non white” surface (often tan) for shadows and white Conté (or similar material) for the highlights. The results were promising as evidenced by the test print below where Black and White pigments were printed with a negative and positive over Van Dyke that was printed with a negative.

I approached the new B&W workflow by eliminating the positive with white pigment and the gray Rives BFK. Instead I use a single negative that I register on a piece of white Rives BFK with multiple exposures.
Making the Print: Cyanotype
I use Cyanotype as the first layer to add detail and enhance the D-max. I do a 20-minute exposure (no greater than step 3 to avoid altering the color balance) before any gum layer is put on.

*I use Winsor Newton Lamp Black for sets 1-3
SET 1:
I expose (about 1 min 40 sec) and develop enough to achieve slight tone in step 3.

SET 2: I then increase the Gum to Sensitizer ratio to 13:11 (for greater contrast) and expose (about 6 min 30 sec) and develop to achieve slight tone in step 8.

SET 3: I increase the Gum to Sensitizer ratio again to 14:10 and expose (about 1 min 15 sec) and develop the long enough to achieve slight tone in step 3.

Final layer (gouache) Using the same 14:10 ratio and the Cyan negative I do a short exposure (about 30 seconds) with Lamp Black. Repeat if necessary for greater D-max and greater depth in the print.



Gum Printing – What is a droper Stem
Tony
Way back on 21 Feb 2012 you explained your pigment/gum/sensitzer ratios. In that description you mentioned you use and inch of pigment to 12 dropper stems of gum and sensitizer. How many ml is a 12 dropper stem? What is this dropper stem? Is it a small eyedropper or something else?
The dropper stem is the what I use to distribute the solution. I don’t know how many ml is in the dropper stem I use but I use as much solution of either gum or sensitizer as the stem of the dropper can hold. The ratio is more important than the actual amount. The post from January 25, 2012 has photos of the dropper bottle and stem:


Gray Scale vs RGB (Part 3: New Curve) © 2016
In my last post, I discussed how the old curve I used with Gray Scale negatives was too contrasty for RGB negatives when making my gum prints. The old curve was based on creating eight distinct points (representing the 8 printable steps I can achieve with gum) and altering the input and output of percentages of black ink.
In Gray scale mode, the Input levels and Output levels are represented in terms of ink percentages rather than light values in “Pigment/Ink %” (on left), where white represents 0% ink and black is 100% ink. In RGB mode, by default, Photoshop displays the Input levels and Output levels gradients in the Curves dialog box from black to white in “Light (0-255)” (on right): black represents areas of no light, a brightness value of 0, and white, the maximum amount of light possible, at level 255.

To come up with a new curve, it was easier for me to work with the “Light (0-255)” graph. I got the new input numbers for the new curve by using the old curve in RGB mode. I just needed to find the new output numbers.

Fortunately, much of the preliminary work was done when I came up with the old curve so it wasn’t necessary for me to “start from scratch.” Originally I used a densitometer to measure the percentages of black ink on a grid of 100 shades of gray printed on Pictorico Ultra Premium OHP Film and compare those readings with measurements from a Stouffer 21-Step Sensitivity guide. See post from July 4, 2011 for more information:
I enlisted a former student of mine from Queens College and aspiring gum printer, Vanessa Fischer, to help come up with a new working curve. I made a printout of the 100 shades of gray for the purpose of writing notes.
I identified those squares of percentages of black ink that corresponded to the old curve along with the correlating densitometry readings. Using the eyedropper tool in Photoshop, I recorded the number that appeared in the “INFO” window in RGB and repeated for all 8 squares corresponding to the 8 steps in my curve.

In the example square below, the bottom number (0.87) represents the densitometry reading, the middle number (85) is the percentage of black ink from the old curve and the top number (54) is taken from the “INFO” window—which has now become the new output numbers.

Below is a comparison of the old and new curve. The new curve is shown on the right in red below.

Vanessa was able to try out the new curve before I had a chance to print. Once I saw her result (below), I was convinced it was going to work.

The new curve.

Gray Scale vs RGB (Part 2: Full Color Gum prints) © 2016
While experimenting with making Gum Prints over Van Dyke this past fall, I realized that RGB negatives contain more information than same image as a Gray Scale negative (subject of my last posts). I decided to explore this further and see how it would apply to my making full color gum prints.
Below is the curve I’ve been using when making full color prints using gray scale negatives. Complete workflow can be seen in my January 25, 2012 blog post http://tonygonzalezartist.tumblr.com/post/16491648522/gum-bichromate-workflow-2012

Below is a print made using the curve and gray scale negatives.

Next I made a new set of negatives using the same curve but with RGB mode negatives. Below are the results. Immediate observation revealed that although the curves translated identically on the graph, the prints however were different. The RGB negatives produced a much more contrasty print which resulted in loss of highlight detail (as seen in the elimination of clouds and sky in the RGB print).

What was needed was a new curve for RGB negatives that would replace the old curve with the gray scale negative. The graphs below shows the new curve (in red) compared to the old curve (in black).

The following prints show the comparison of the old curve with gray scale negatives (right), the old curve with RGB negatives (middle) and the new curve with RGB negatives (left).

The results of the new curve with the RGB negatives regained the highlight detail lost with the old curve using RGB negatives. The color, tones, density and contrast are also well balanced.

Next blog post, the new curve…
Gray Scale vs RGB (Part 1: Origin) © 2016
Yesterday I gave a talk at Middlesex County College in Edison, NJ to students in a History of Photography class. In discussing my workflow I was explaining the curves I apply when making my digital negatives and how I used to print out my negatives in Gray Scale mode until I recently embarked on a test to create Gum over Van Dyke prints (subject of my last blog post). Normally when I make the color separated negatives for my full color gum prints, I print the negatives in Gray Scale mode since Photoshop automatically converts the RGB image into Gray Scale after you “Split Channels” in “Multichannel” mode. However, since I was using a single negative for the Gum over Van Dyke test, I decided to “Desaturate” the color in the original image rather than changing from RGB to Scale Mode (which discards the color information) before inverting the image and applying my curve. For comparison, I also created a negative where I converted the original image from RGB to Gray Scale mode. The results below show the Gray Scale negative on the left and the RGB negative on the right.

The RGB negative on the right shows more detail and tonal definition than the Gray Scale counterpart on the left. I made Van Dyke prints to see how the negatives would translate differently. The print on the left below is made with the Gray Scale negative and the print on the right is made with the RGB negative.

Not surprisingly, the Van Dyke print made with the Gray Scale negative is flat and lacks shadow detail whereas the Van Dyke print made with the RGB negative has more contrast and detail. The results were extremely promising and I was eager to try making my full color gum prints now using RGB negatives instead of Gray Scale negatives—which will be the subject of my next blog post.
Gum over Van Dyke
I was asked once if it’s possible to print Gum over Van Dyke. I posted an answer saying I thought it was possible but someone tweeted this response to my answer: “Gum over Van Dyke actually shouldn’t work because the dichromate is a silver bleaching agent.” I knew this was not true but I had no proof –thus, I embarked on a test that resulted in the following print.
Although printing Cyanotype over Van Dyke is not possible because the Potassium Ferricyanide in the Cyanotype formula is an oxidizing agent that removes silver and therefore would etch out the silver nitrate in the existing Van Dyke print underneath. However, the Potassium Dichromate in the Gum formula does not bleach silver and can be used to print over Van Dyke prints. In fact, it was typical for traditional Gum Printers to print gum over Platinum to add color (see Steichen print below).
For my print, I used a gray Rives BFK which I preshrunk, sized and hardened. I printed the Van Dyke image using the Photographers’ Formulary Van Dyke Brown Printing Kit—although, it would be cheaper to purchase the bulk chemicals if you’re going to me making a lot of prints. Afterwards, I coated the print with gum sensitizer at a 1:1 ratio and used Winsor Newton Lamp Black pigment with a short exposure (aprox. 1 min 30 sec) to add color and density to the shadows. Then, using a positive rather than a negative, I coated the print with gum sensitizer at a 1:1 ratio and used Winsor Newton Permanent White gauche with a long exposure (aprox. 6 – 6 ½ min) to add color and tone to the highlights.
Although I’m pleased with the results of the experiment, the print itself can be improved. The print was made using a RGB negative and positive but the curve I applied was the curve I used when I was using Gray Scale negatives. The RGB negative with the Gray Scale curve is too contrasty and looses detail in the highlights. I’ve since revised the curve (a modified gray scale curve) for RGB negatives which will be the topic of my next blog post.


Edward Steichen (1879– 1973): “The Pond – Moonlight” (1904)
Vacuum Table
Hey Tony,
Thank you so much for all the information you have provided. Such a great resource. I was wondering if you could share a little more about your vacuum table? Is it something that you bought or made?
Thank you!
Steve
Hi Steve,
I acquired the vacuum table from a college buddy of mine. It’s a “Multilith” vacuum table made by the ADDRESSOGRAPH-MULTIGRAPH CORPORATION. According to Wikipedia “The original company which manufactured the Addressograph, Addressograph International, merged in 1932 with American Multigraph of Cleveland, Ohio, to form the Addressograph-Multigraph Corporation manufacturing highly efficient addressograph and duplicating machines. In 1978 the corporate headquarters moved from Cleveland to Los Angeles, California, and the corporation name changed in 1979 to AM International. In 1982, the firm filed for bankruptcy under Chapter 11.”
Hope this helps.
Tony

Why Cyanotype as first pass?
Hey Tony, You have been my primary inspiration in pursuing gum printing. Thanks! My question is: why use cyanotype for a first pass rather than using gum throughout? It would seem to complicate things…
Thanks, Chris Marker
Hi Chris, I use cyanotype before printing gum to increase D-max and enhance shadow detail. Tony